It is the rainy season, and as always, I enjoy the monsoon season with a cup of tea and sitting on my balcony and cribbing that I cannot go out anymore, to my parents, my neighbors, my friends, and sometimes to my walls.
They reply by letting loose some plaster powder on me. I had learned to live with it since my landlord will not contribute to new walls.
Until recently, when I came across the concept of Drywalls. I was intrigued. So, I dug deeper, which is how I found the perfect solution to my monsoon wall problem.
I do not need my landlord to get my dingy walls fixed, and I can do them myself.
What is a Drywall?
Drywall is a type of construction material that is used to create walls and ceilings. It comes in many designs – arches, eaves, and other rather appealing structures.
It is quick and straightforward to install, and you can trust it to last long thanks to its durability and requirement of simple repairs when damaged.
It is an easy and cheap way to top off masonry walls above ceilings. On top of that, drywall is fire resistant and is known to contain the spread of fire so people can evacuate safely during a fire emergency.
Drywall (also called Wallboard, Sheetrock, Gyp Board, Gypsum Board, Plasterboard) are large sheets of finishing material that faces dwellings buildings’ interior walls.
Drywall is constructed minus the use of bricks, plaster, and mortar, the usual construction material. They are made of plywood, wood pulp, asbestos-cement board, and gypsum.
7 Types of Drywall
There are many types of drywall depending on the customer’s requirement and the location where it is supposed to be installed.
Regular Drywall or White Board
Regular drywall is usually white on one side and brown on the other. It is the most economical drywall type and comes in different sizes (from ⅜ inch to 1 inch of thickness). It is the most common type of drywall used and is commonly available in 4/8-foot panels in the market.
Green Board Drywall
Green board drywall is also moisture-resistant drywall because it has a green covering that makes it resist moisture compared to regular drywall. It is used as a tile backer in areas with a limited water supply, such as bathrooms, basement walls, and laundry rooms. However, it is more expensive and not waterproof, so you need to keep in mind not placing it near water.
Blue Board Drywall
Popularly known as Plaster Baseboard, Blue board is used for veneer plastering, and the surface paper is known to have superior absorption capabilities. It is highly water and mold resistant. Therefore, it works very well in bathrooms or places where moisture is in abundance. It is also soundproof.
For quite some time now, paperless drywall has been taking place earlier occupied by paper drywall. This drywall is covered with fiberglass instead of paper, which protects the gypsum board from rot and resists mold and mildew.
This drywall has slight textures that require applying a joint compound to achieve a smooth, clean finish. The board’s quality is more challenging than regular drywall, but it is far easier to cut.
Purple drywall is somewhat like regular drywall. It offers the same advantages but is far more superior to regular drywall when resisting moisture and mold.
It is used with all wall and ceiling applications and is best suited where enhanced moisture and mold are foreseen. If the wall will be in contact with moisture or water, this drywall is the one you must go for.
Type X Drywall
This is the fire-resistant drywall I was talking about before. Its several ranges of thicknesses are used in layers to achieve a higher fire rating. It is made with special non-combustible fibers, and its thickness typically comes around 5-8 inches.
Extra thickness improves its soundproofing qualities. To receive the “Type X” rating, the drywall must achieve at least an hour of fire-resistance rating for ⅝ inch board or a 45-minute rating for a ½ inch board in a single layer, nailed on each face of load-bearing, wood framing members.
It is harder to cut and work on than regular drywall and is usually used in garages, rooms, and apartment buildings.
The Soundproof Drywall is composed of laminated drywall made with a mix of wood fibers, gypsum, and polymers that increase the STC (Sound Transmission Class) by leaps and bounds.
Due to its materials, it is denser than regular drywall and is thus a little harder to cut than any other drywall type. Its soundproofing qualities are used in areas where noise is an issue or if a room is required to be soundproof.
So, this drywall is perfect for your family rooms, or if you are a musician, it will be best suited for your music room.
Cost of Drywalling Your Home
- Drywall Hamme
- Nail Apron
- Utility Knife
- Chalk Line
- Square, Tape, Rasp
- Drywall Mud Pan
- Wallboard Sheets
- Drywall Screws
- Joint Tape
- Joint Compound
- Wallboard Adhesive
- Corner Strips
How to Estimate the Cost of Drywalling Your Home?
After deciding what kind of drywall you want for your home, office, or shop, you must know how to estimate the cost you will incur during the entire process if you do not want to wait for your contractor to do so for you.
You should follow the same steps that professionals and companies use. They count the drywall sheets, mud, tape, screws, and corner bead they need.
Once they have an idea of the quantities and the materials they will need throughout, they calculate the entire process’s total cost and the materials.
Step 1: Measure the Square Footage
Measure the total square footage of the areas where you want the drywall to be installed. Then multiply the width with each wall or ceiling’s height, and then add all the quantities together to get a total square foot amount.
Step 2: Estimate the Cost of Drywall Sheets
Next, calculate how many drywall sheets you will need. Divide the total square footage area by 32, i.e., if you are going for 4/8 sheets, else by 48 if you are going for 4/12 sheets. The division will give you the total number of sheets you will need for the drywalling. It is good to add 10 to 15 percent for a buffer, for waste and odd cuts.
For Example, if your total area is coming out to be 1,600 square feet and you are going for 4/8 sheets:
1600 divided by 32 = 50sheets
And then taking 5 (you can take more too) for the extra buffer:
50+5 as we are taking 10% buffer) = 55 sheets
For getting the cost, multiply the total number of sheets by the price per sheet. Do not forget to add the local taxes and the delivery charges to the cost.
Step 3: Estimated Cost of Drywall Tape
For calculating the total amount of drywall tape needed, you need to multiply the perimeter of each sheet by the total number of sheets to determine the linear feet of joint tape for the drywall. The perimeter of a 4/8 sheet is 16 feet; the perimeter of a 4/12 sheet is 20 feet.
For Example, if you want 55 sheets of 4/8 inches each, the total tape you will need is –
55 x 16 = 800 feet. Usually, most rolls of tape have 500 feet. Divide your total by 500 to determine how many rolls of tape you will need. Once you have calculated how many rolls of drywall tape you will need, multiply the number of rolls by the cost per roll to get the estimated cost of tape.
Step 4: Estimated Cost of Joint Compound
It is a general rule to estimate 0.053 pounds of mud per square foot of drywall. Now, multiply the total number of square feet by 0.053 to determine how many pounds of compounds you will need. If you are putting 1600 sq. ft of drywall, you will need:
1600 x 0.053 = 84.8 pounds of compound.
Step 5: Cost of Drywall Screws
Divide the square footage of drywall by 300.
1600 / 300 = 5.33 pounds of screws.
Step 6: Cost of Corner Beads
For this, count the number of outside wall corners. Consider using one full corner bead for each corner. Do not use 8ft / 10ft bead.
Step 7: Miscellaneous Costs
Do not forget to add the miscellaneous costs that might apply, such as:
- Supplies for protecting finished areas.
- Permit Fees
Calculate your estimated cost after you have decided your budget so that you can go ahead already and buy your drywall now!